Day 3 I’m a bit toasted; opt today for the 1 boot (easier) option. This means I can relax for a couple of hours before heading out. The pool is inviting, until I dip my toe in – feels like ice water. But, I’m thinking that my muscles are sore and my joints are swollen, so this could be the equivalent of a whole body cold pack. It takes me 15 minutes to slowly immerse myself, but then it feels quite nice and I swim for awhile and then dry in the sun. I feel like I’m at a Swedish spa having some kind of treatment! Today’s hike takes us up 30 minutes by 4-wheel vehicle to the start point of the ancient silk route, used to transport the silkworm cocoons from Competa to Granada (the mule tracks actually extend all the way to China). We start at a stunning overlook over the peaks of the Sierra Almijara – you can see right out over the shores of the Mediterranean and maybe even to the ridge of the North African Rif Mountains on a clear day. We take a picnic lunch at abandoned ruins of what was once a mountain lodge frequented by silk traders – you can almost imagine the clinking of wine glasses and smell of roast pork on an open pit. After lunch, it’s a fragrant (dense with pine, wild fennel and lavender) and exhilarating walk – mostly ridge walking, just a short section of steep, rocky uphill. Andrew keeps an eye out for big birds – and he finally rewards us with a sighting of a large group of griffon vultures (3 ft wing spans) spiraling over the ridge. We arrive at the dirt road for our final 2 hour downhill stretch. One sighting of a group of ibex (mountain goats) keeps us looking for more as we continue on what seems like a very long end of the day (the last 2 hours are always the hardest!) We stream into the hotel in small groups and have an hour of so to shower and relax before a special guest chef serves dinner. Dinner starts with a wonderful selection of tapas (salad with smoked salmon and avocado, toast with baked goat cheese, spicy skewered shrimp, and stuffed pasta). No worries about leaving room for the main course, I’ll plenty hungry! This is followed by an Andalucian lamb specialty served with potatoes and fresh vegetables. Dessert is the piece de resistance – almond cakes served with a delicious homemade vanilla & honey ice cream. Very sad this is my last night with the group, but tomorrow I’m off to Cordoba! P. S. I've hopefully solicted the services of a "ghost writer" for the remainder of the walks - stay tuned for our special guest (aspiring stand up comedian).
Today is a warm up day - The Three Villages Walk – we’re expecting a 6 mile walk, but the elevation changes could make that seem a lot longer. The weather so far has been ideal, warm (say 75 F) in the daytime but cooling off quite a bit at night. We start out right from the hotel with a moderate uphill climb (I’m a bit worried, as I’m out of breath in 10 minutes) but then we quickly head down through olives and almonds to the village of Archez, famous for its beautiful decorated Madéjar church.
Stopping mid morning for a coffee, Andrew relates a surprisingly huge knowledge of the history of the region, dating back to the Phoenician, Roman and Moorish rules. It quickly becomes apparent that he is somewhat of a Renaissance man – working as a mountain guide part time and an artist the remainder of the year. His knowledge of the flora and fauna of the region is only surpassed by his enthusiasm. My initial concerns about the difficulty of the walk evaporate, as he paces the group and stops frequently to point out herbs (wild thyme and rosemary) and fruit (avocado and pomegranate) and we taste our way through the countryside.
It’s then a climb on past terraced hillsides to the pretty white village of Còmpeta with the backdrop of the Sierra de Tejeda. We stop in the village square (dominated by the 16C church – stunning views to the Mediterranean) for a tapas lunch at picture postcard pretty outdoor café dotted with blue umbrellas. As long as they keep bringing the food, I’ll keep eating it! Love this way of leisurely snacking – a few bites at a time for an hour or so.
It does take a bit of dedication to keep going, although Andrew has promised a long, flat and steady mule track across to the village of Canillas de Albaida. We pass locals riding donkeys along with their produce on packs and old women dressed entirely in black (a tradition for widows). The mountain irrigation system is extensive (Roman origins) and we get a chance to fill our water bottles with sparkling, crystal clear water from the aqueduct.
Canillas is charming, with winding narrow, tiled downhill alleys past flower filled verandas and heavy wooden doors. As we reach the outskirts of the village we are serenaded by the lively dialog of an African grey parrot (check out the video, yes! it is a parrot).
On our final stretch (the Hotel Finca is so close, but SO far away) is completely downhill and then a strenuous zig zag straight uphill. We arrive around 5pm, ready for a hot shower and late afternoon rest before another fabulous dinner (at a local restaurant in Compèta). By now, we’ve bonded as a group, so the discussion is lively (US politics dominates – seems everyone worldwide is following the soap opera) and the wine is free flowing!
Day 1 I arrive early at the Malaga airport. Unfortunately, the cheap flight I booked required an early departure out of Barcelona. When the group arrives, it is easy to spot our fearless leader, Andrew. He would be the fit and gregarious fellow waiting in the airport café. We pile into our bus (mini) for the trip to Hotel Finca in Canillas de Albaida, a seemingly short 1 hour drive from Malaga. No one has prepared me (or anyone else it seems in the group) for the hairpin, edge of your seat, nosebleed ride ahead. Hopefully, we won’t see any buses that have careened off the precipice.
It is a beautiful ride through limestone white washed villages of red clay tile roofs, all set in the rugged Andalucia mountains. As we pull into our home for the week, Hotel Finca (Finca means casual, not serious, we’re earning a living doing this, farm). We’re greeted by Sue and Gordon, the English ex pat owners and Basil (dog extraordinaire) warmly and taken to our individually styled room in this fantastically restored 200-year old farmhouse (once used as an olive mill – the property includes a large grove of olive trees).
My room overlooks the pool and the entire valley down to the sea. A quick change and I’m out to explore the property. Later I find out that Gordon is the creative genius behind the creation of the total unique atmosphere of the inn. Lush gardens of plumbago, lemon trees and flowering terraces interspersed with little seating areas (the Moroccan influences are obvious – we’re only a few miles by ferry to the shore of Northern Africa). Lots of little rooms for relaxing including a fully stocked library (you can take home any book if you haven’t finished it) and, of course, pool side lounge.
Dinner tonight is our first group gathering – all at one long table in the lovely lounge, complete with open fire (it has cooled off quite a bit) and comfy sofas. We linger over tapas (blood pudding is well received) and a dinner of chicken roasted in local grapes and raisins. It’s been a long day, but we all chat up a little in front of the fire before retiring for the evening. Tomorrow will be our first walking day (a warm up around the local 3 villages), so we’re all anxious to get a good rest.
Day 4-5 I arrive in Barcelona just in time for siesta (4-6pm or so). My hotel couldn’t be better located, about 2 blocks from the Las Ramblas (an avenue of 5 streets filled with shops, outdoor cafes and other attractions) and a 2 Euro taxi ride from the train station. The Hotel Meson Castilla is a 100+ year old home converted to hotel, so has lots of quirky charm – my room is tiny with a door that opens to a courtyard of sorts for fresh air. Perfectly acceptable and quiet. When I finally venture out, the crowds are overwhelming. As are the shops. It will be tough to decide, do I shop? Or do I sightsee? Well, tonight - I shop…then a late dinner of salad caprese (fresh tomatoes layered with mozzarella cheese and drizzled with pesto) followed by Paella, a Catalan specialty of saffron rice with squid, chicken, sausage, whole langostino and vegetables. Topped off with a caramel flan (known locally as crema Catalan as it originated here) and whipped cream. Yum. My only full day in Barcelona starts out slowly, as I’m feeling the ravages of the 12km walk yesterday. I get my bearings by shopping – at the Les Corte Inglés. This is the largest department store I think I’ve ever been in – I stopped at the 9th floor (but it went on). They have everything from dog food to designer handbags and pianos. My purchase – a set of castañuelas (castanets – a traditional Spanish musical instrument used by flamenco dancers) and a harmonica for my sons. The clerk tells me in halting English that he is from Cuba and his family lives in Miami.
Next stop, lunch! My goal is still to visit a few attractions – the Picasso Museum and maybe the Sagrada Familia (Guadi's unfinished cathedral), but my energy is still lagging. Tapas (little meals) are perfect for this time of day – so I try a little Tapas bar just next to the Barcelona Cathedral. I feel a little silly taking pictures of my meals, but – hey! I’m an American…so no one notices. Cod Croquettes, Greek salad and bread rubbed with olive oil and tomatoes go down well with the local drink – beer and lemonaid. This is certainly a better version of beer – light and refreshing.
It’s only a few blocks now to the Picasso Museum. I’m not really a big fan of his cubist art, but the exhibit is a revelation. The progression of his art from the tender age of 14-15 (his portraits and classical art at this age are breathtaking) to his later years is fascinating - well worth the visit. Afterwards, in search of a Metro station – which seems to elude me – takes me to the port then to the monument of Christopher Columbus (the plaque is engraved En Connenoracion del IV Centenarid del Descubriniento de America – roughly translated – “In Commemoration of the 400th year Anniversary of the Discovery of America") Come to think of it, some of us owe our very existence to Spain! This marks the entrance to Las Rambles. I forgo all other plans and stroll the wide avenue; an utterly unique experience. This is part carnival, part social commentary and completely Spanish. The flower stalls are overflowing with color (some of these stalls have been owned and operated by the same families for years) – and the outdoor market! Such an abundance of perfectly ripe fruit and vegetables, whole fish of every variety, ham and cured meats hanging evenly, candy, chocolate – you name it – even egg shops, dried chili stalls and a live rabbit & chicken vendor.
I take the siesta again today…then finish the evening at a hole in the wall with lamb crispy lamb shawarma and falafel pita. It’s after 11 pm – so I head back for my last night. Have to get up early tomorrow for the 7 am flight to Malaga!
Day 4 Determined to make the most of my last day, I wake early (it’s still dark) at 7 am and stumble down to the lobby. My hosts for the evening are cheerful and welcoming with a steaming cup of coffee and croissant (very flakey and even warm). Today I hope to complete the walk from Berger back to Calella de Palfrugell by around 2 pm. That’s 12km, but Ashley says it is a MUST do and the most spectacular day’s walk.
As I set off I wonder if this was the day to dress in a T shirt and shorts. The wind is whipping over the hill and is a bit chilly (maybe around 55 F), but I hope it warms up as I go. My reward comes quickly, as 1 hour into the walk after a gentle stroll through pines and past stunning villas mostly on the GR 92, I descend into the charming seaside village of Tamariu. It’s a picturesque scene, where I sit under the tamarisk trees (from which the town takes its name) and gaze out over the small cove surrounded by rocky cliffs. A couple is swimming at the beach, so obviously, it’s warmed up a bit.
No time to dawdle though, as I see my stamina will now be tested.
The path takes off ON THE ROCKY CLIFF! I almost went the wrong way, thinking there was NO WAY, but somehow if you look closely there IS a path and steps and it is possible to walk around the edge of the bay.
Amazing views as I walk for about 2 hours along the Mediterranean coast, across some sections actually waymarked on large boulders against crashing surf and up then up through pine covered forests. Almost every turn is breathtaking, with constant views of the crystal blue horizon. Maybe even vertigo producing views! You wouldn’t want to walk the route at dusk as there are steep overhangs over deep crevasse crashing with the surf. I can’t even think of another place of more beauty and solitude.
As I finish a particularly tough section – zig zagging straight down a sheer cliff (there are fences strategically placed to hold on to and very well waymarked) – and come down (again) to a very private beach on the stunning cove of Cala Pedrosa, I meet the first walkers (and only) I will see all day. They are British and we share a few hints about what’s ahead (they tell me I have along way to go! Which I dismiss, only to discover is CORRECT. I tell them they have a directly uphill walk for 30 minutes or more – but it is WORTH IT!). I hope they made it.
Finally, a long and winding climb back up (okay, now I’m noticing that extra 30 lbs) till I reach the lighthouse at Sant Sebastia. Never been so happy to see a bathroom (Hotel El Far has an enviable location at the top of the cliff overlooking the Mediterranean). It’s only a short few feet to the overlook on Calella de Palfrugell, which is possibly the highlight of the entire walk, as the honey colored villages and absolutely stunning beaches and marinas filled with boats extend as far as the eye can see. I glimpse the Hotel Garbi overlooking it all in the distance. It looks like about 15 minutes away (turns out to be over an hour!). When I make the final ascent to the hotel, they are waiting with my luggage and a hot shower. Can’t really describe how that felt! So I made it by 2 pm (by a margin of 30 min) and Ashley takes me back to Flaca train station for the direct train to Barcelona. I thank him for his sincere hospitality as I board the train for the next phase of my journey – Barcelona!
Day 3 – This is normally a “stay put” day, so there is the option to relax by the pool or take a short 2 mile walk into La Bisbal. Here is a picture of the hotel. It’s a bit rainy today, so I take a side trip (courtesy of Ashley, he is a gem) to Figueres to see the Dali Museum. This is a fascinating, not to be missed experience, even if the circular layout and mostly bizarre experience (he was a surrealist after all) left me a bit dizzy. The jewelry exhibit was my favorite (the ruby encrusted beating heart takes you by surprise).
Then off to take a look at the cycling hotels in L’Escale (right on the ocean, the pool looks like it is floating in the Med) and a truly charming farm house hotel in Baseia. We pull up to my nights accommodation in the heart of Berger around 4 pm. The town is small and quiet, with a nice selection of shops. I have a few conversations (well, okay, I point to my translator book and try to ask a few questions, quite successfully I might add) and sit in a little bar having a glass of wine. No body seems to notice me. I think I look very Spanish (did I mention that several people have asked ME for directions so far!)
Dinner is fantastic. A spoonful of lentil salad and very subtle fish broth, followed by warm goat cheese salad and fillet of cod with a wonderful mushroom cream sauce…a very light dessert of fresh apple flan. I’ve got to get up early tomorrow and make the 8 mi walk to Calella by 2 pm, rumor is this is the most spectacular walk of the week (walking from the Berger along the Med to Callela).
Day 2 - No need for an alarm. I wake right at 8 am to the sound of birds and gentle surf. Breakfast is quite a spread, cold cuts, cheese, yogurt, croissants and fresh honey and jam. The coffee is plentiful and perfect. This is a hotel you wish you could stay in for the entire week. The gardens are spectacular, somewhat tropical with palm trees mixed with pines. The pool looks picture postcard beautiful, just the place I could relax around for a few days. But, maybe better to save this to the end, as the tour circle backs to end here at the end of the week. Ashley gives us an overview of the days and weeks walks. He takes us by van to pick up some supplies (water – recommendation is about 1 – ½ liters per day as it can get warm this time of year, Oct). Then he drops us about 15 min north of town.
We’re heading inland now, through olive groves and past several little villages. Some so small, you’re not quite sure it WAS a village. All are so charming, I can’t stop taking pictures. Beautiful stone homes, some dating back to the 1700’s (stone stair ways are carved with the date), yet even the newer homes are built in the same style with clay roofs and iron work on the doors and windows. The walking is mostly easy today – on flat dirt roads and tracks. We make pretty slow time, as it is a warm up day. Don’t want to overdo it too much. In about 4 hours we arrive in Peratallada – a walled village (you even cross a moat to get there). Its name means “carved stone” and it is a maze of streets with Gothic stone houses, lots of flower pots overflowing with Bougainvillea and colorful flowers. It’s hard to get through; every corner is like a vignette of cobbled stone paths and archways. Around the main square (lots of antique shops and art galleries) we spot a couple of good choices for lunch – but we choose the pleasant outdoor seating terrace. I have the smoked salmon platter with baked goat cheese and toast. Just perfect. My companions have smoked ham on toast and a goat cheese salad with mustard vinaigrette. It doesn’t take too long to recover our energy and we take off. Only 4 kms left to go. We’ve seen so much today! Soaring eagles, magpies, olive groves with black olives ripening on the branches, not to mention pomegranate trees heavy with ripe fruit! And everywhere, there are gardens with red tomatoes and eggplant ready to harvest. The variety of plant life is amazing – lemon trees, acorn trees, pines and cork trees. They harvest the bottom part of the cork tree bark – so easy to spot. I’m told it takes 18 years for it to grow back (but at least it is a sustainable harvest!).
By around 4 we climb the last hill (really the only hill today) to finish the 14 km day at our castle hotel, the 4**** Castell d’Emporda just on the outskirts of La Bisbal. I thought the first nights stay was spectacular, but this is amazing! The building is a restored 700-year castle. The restoration is funky and modern with sophisticated touches of China, India and Morocco. My room has a very, very private balcony looking out over the entire valley. Dinner tonight at 8:15 pm (that’s the earliest you can eat in Spain! More like 10 pm for the locals). Can’t wait to try the gastronomic cuisine and sit by the pool for an after dinner drink.
Started the evening with a glass of wine overlooking the valley, the almost chilly breeze felt great after such a long hike today. The dining room is very unique, with 4 large black blown glass chandeliers and purple high backed formal seating. The fettuccine is fresh and la dente with baby clams and fresh red cherry tomato. Next course, confit of fish with baby vegetables. I couldn’t resist desert (I earned it), pear tart with a dollop of vanilla ice cream. I’ll sleep well tonight.
Day 1 – I arrive at Flaca train station (pronounced Flassa) around 5 pm after a long 24 hours of travel. Still, it’s refreshing to see Ashley, smiling and holding a “Headwater” sign. My worries about missing the pick up and getting off at the wrong station evaporate. And guess what! Two additional guests are on the same train – from Australia. They’ve just come from a stay in London, Germany and Prague, so have been on the road for several weeks already. Ashley takes us the short 25 minutes to Calella de Palfrugell by van and gives us an overview of the villages we’ll pass through later on the week’s walk. We arrive at the Hotel Garbi – lovely and set back on a private several acres of gardens. My room overlooks the Mediterranean! Wow! The view is spectacular over the village of Calella and the ocean. The clouds are rolling in though – so I’ll wait till morning for some pictures.
Time to walk into town and find a snack. I’m not really up for a big dinner, so after a brief stroll by the sandy beach (lots of colorful boats pulled up on shore) and up again through the winding streets of stone houses and shops - I settle on a small bar. A couple of locals are having a drink – so, why not? I order a pitcher of Sangria. The owner mixes it up fresh for me with lemons and oranges – sensational! He gives me the code for internet wi-fi access and I make a quick call home to check on the kids (I left the twins – aged 6, boys, home with Dad, he seems to be managing okay).
Finally, I make my way back to the hotel by street lamp – good thing I took the map with me! The roads wind by private gates, as this is somewhat of a high end summer place for wealthy Barcelonans. The city is packed from mid July to late August – thus the tour is not offered during this time frame (also, it would be too hot for walking). The room is so comfortable; I don’t even move a muscle until morning.
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