Day 2 - No need for an alarm. I wake right at 8 am to the sound of birds and gentle surf. Breakfast is quite a spread, cold cuts, cheese, yogurt, croissants and fresh honey and jam. The coffee is plentiful and perfect. This is a hotel you wish you could stay in for the entire week. The gardens are spectacular, somewhat tropical with palm trees mixed with pines. The pool looks picture postcard beautiful, just the place I could relax around for a few days. But, maybe better to save this to the end, as the tour circle backs to end here at the end of the week. Ashley gives us an overview of the days and weeks walks. He takes us by van to pick up some supplies (water – recommendation is about 1 – ½ liters per day as it can get warm this time of year, Oct). Then he drops us about 15 min north of town.

We’re heading inland now, through olive groves and past several little villages. Some so small, you’re not quite sure it WAS a village. All are so charming, I can’t stop taking pictures. Beautiful stone homes, some dating back to the 1700’s (stone stair ways are carved with the date), yet even the newer homes are built in the same style with clay roofs and iron work on the doors and windows. The walking is mostly easy today – on flat dirt roads and tracks. We make pretty slow time, as it is a warm up day. Don’t want to overdo it too much. In about 4 hours we arrive in Peratallada – a walled village (you even cross a moat to get there). Its name means “carved stone” and it is a maze of streets with Gothic stone houses, lots of flower pots overflowing with Bougainvillea and colorful flowers. It’s hard to get through; every corner is like a vignette of cobbled stone paths and archways. Around the main square (lots of antique shops and art galleries) we spot a couple of good choices for lunch – but we choose the pleasant outdoor seating terrace. I have the smoked salmon platter with baked goat cheese and toast. Just perfect. My companions have smoked ham on toast and a goat cheese salad with mustard vinaigrette. It doesn’t take too long to recover our energy and we take off. Only 4 kms left to go.
We’ve seen so much today! Soaring eagles, magpies, olive groves with black olives ripening on the branches, not to mention pomegranate trees heavy with ripe fruit! And everywhere, there are gardens with red tomatoes and eggplant ready to harvest. The variety of plant life is amazing – lemon trees, acorn trees, pines and cork trees. They harvest the bottom part of the cork tree bark – so easy to spot. I’m told it takes 18 years for it to grow back (but at least it is a sustainable harvest!).

By around 4 we climb the last hill (really the only hill today) to finish the 14 km day at our castle hotel, the 4**** Castell d’Emporda just on the outskirts of La Bisbal. I thought the first nights stay was spectacular, but this is amazing! The building is a restored 700-year castle. The restoration is funky and modern with sophisticated touches of China, India and Morocco. My room has a very, very private balcony looking out over the entire valley. Dinner tonight at 8:15 pm (that’s the earliest you can eat in Spain! More like 10 pm for the locals). Can’t wait to try the gastronomic cuisine and sit by the pool for an after dinner drink.

Started the evening with a glass of wine overlooking the valley, the almost chilly breeze felt great after such a long hike today. The dining room is very unique, with 4 large black blown glass chandeliers and purple high backed formal seating. The fettuccine is fresh and la dente with baby clams and fresh red cherry tomato. Next course, confit of fish with baby vegetables. I couldn’t resist desert (I earned it), pear tart with a dollop of vanilla ice cream. I’ll sleep well tonight.